Browsing by Author "Moeran, Brian"
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The Portraval of Beauty in Woman's Fashion MagazinesMoeran, Brian (Frederiksberg, 2009)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: The primary contents of women’s fashion magazines are fashion, beauty and health. This paper sets out to explore the ways in which international fashion magazines such as Elle, Vogue and Marie Claire portray feminine beauty in textual and advertising matter and how their readers react to such portrayals. Beauty is analysed as grooming practice, and make-up as the prime symbol of the self and its many facets in social interaction. The paper looks at the different kinds of ‘face’ that magazines invite their women readers to put on and suggests that they – and their advertisers – adopt a ‘technology of enchantment’ as a means of exercise control over them. Magazine and advertising language is imbued with ‘magical’ power, and the paper shows how the structure of advertisements closely parallels that of magical spells used in certain healing rituals. It concludes by using magazine reader interviews to learn the extent to which women do or do not believe in such ‘spells’ and whether they are encouraged to buy into the ‘beauty myth’. URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/7817 Files in this item: 1
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Moeran, Brian (Frederiksberg, 2008)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: This working paper examines the role of international book fairs in the global publishing industry, and in particular their relation to the publishing cycle, chain and field. It outlines some relevant historical features, as well as main functions, of fairs, before describing in detail the daily activities of an independent academic publisher at the Frankfurt Book Fair. Analysis of the book fair takes place at two levels. The first focuses on the importance of visibility in a fair’s timing and location, as well as in the location and size of participants’ stands, inclusion in the fair catalogue, business deals, and social gatherings. The second examines the book fair as a tournament of values, or ritual tournament, in terms of its framing, membership and currency. The argument presented is that the currency of copyright is not dissimilar to a form of gift exchange and that, as a result, a book is both commodity and gift. It is in the shadow of the gift that the commodity of the book is produced, distributed, sold and read. URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/8150 Files in this item: 1
x656557140.pdf (257.4Kb) -
Moeran, Brian (, 2008)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: This working paper examines the role of international book fairs in the global publishing industry, and in particular their relation to the publishing cycle, chain and field. It outlines some relevant historical features, as well as main functions, of fairs, before describing in detail the daily activities of an independent academic publisher at the Frankfurt Book Fair. Analysis of the book fair takes place at two levels. The first focuses on the importance of visibility in a fair’s timing and location, as well as in the location and size of participants’ stands, inclusion in the fair catalogue, business deals, and social gatherings. The second examines the book fair as a tournament of values, or ritual tournament, in terms of its framing, membership and currency. The argument presented is that the currency of copyright is not dissimilar to a form of gift exchange and that, as a result, a book is both commodity and gift. It is in the shadow of the gift that the commodity of the book is produced, distributed, sold and read. URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/7779 Files in this item: 1
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Moeran, Brian (, 2009)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: This working paper examines the role of international book fairs in the global publishing industry, and in particular their relation to the publishing cycle, chain and field. It outlines some relevant historical features, as well as main functions, of fairs, before describing in detail the daily activities of an independent academic publisher at the Frankfurt Book Fair. Analysis of the book fair takes place at two levels. The first focuses on the importance of visibility in a fair’s timing and location, as well as in the location and size of participants’ stands, inclusion in the fair catalogue, business deals, and social gatherings. The second examines the book fair as a tournament of values, or ritual tournament, in terms of its framing, membership and currency. The argument presented is that the currency of copyright is not dissimilar to a form of gift exchange and that, as a result, a book is both commodity and gift. It is in the shadow of the gift that the commodity of the book is produced, distributed, sold and read. URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/7795 Files in this item: 1
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Moeran, Brian (København, 2001)[More information][Less information]
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Abstract: This paper examines perfume advertising within the overall context of theoretical approaches to the study of smell. Pointing out that smell is marked by a paucity of language, it proceeds to examine how smell is represented in perfume advertisements. Based on an analysis of more than 250 ads worldwide, the paper asks if there are any consistent relations between language, colours and smell materials, as well as between models’ poses, seasons, and classes of perfume (floral, oriental, woody, and so on). It proceeds to survey a number of writings linking colour with smell, and suggests that olfactory marketing should, perhaps, be more consistent in its linking of these two domains in advertising and packaging. URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/8371 Files in this item: 1
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Abstract: To edit is to make a choice, or series of choices. Will I write a rough draft of this essay in longhand, or hammer it out on my computer? If the latter, what font shall I use? Times New Roman, Book Antiqua, or Garamond? Once I get started, what style shall I adopt: realistic, confessional or impressionistic; or a combination of all three (Van Maanen 1988)? Should I try to impress with ‘learned scholarship’, or should I merely outline in conversational English a few thoughts based on my own experiences?... URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/8337 Files in this item: 1
61 - BM The craft of editing (2).pdf (156.8Kb) -
Moeran, Brian (, 2009)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: This paper draws on extensive fieldwork in a wide range of creative industries to argue that creativity itself is under-theorised, and should be considered as both enabled and inhibited by numerous constraints guiding the choices made by creative personnel during the course of their work. Six sets of constraints are outlined in the context of different forms of cultural production: material, temporal, spatial, social, representational and economic. It is argued that the performance of creative work is similar in part to Turner’s concept of ‘communitas’, when an aura of individual creativity is passed to other participants. This kind of liminal space is also found in creative industry ritual events, which enable participants to communicate on an equal footing, and gain knowledge and connections that they can then use at work in their normal everyday lives. These in turn may have a long-term effect on cultural production, creativity and constraints. URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/7951 Files in this item: 1
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the anthropology of marketing and marketing anthropologyMoeran, Brian (København, 2002)[More information][Less information]
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Moeran, Brian (København, 2008)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: This essay examines embedded structural tensions in the organization of Japanese advertising production. Tensions arise from the fact that an advertising campaign, like many other creative products, is produced by motley crews of personnel from both within an agency contracted to carry out the campaign (an account team) and freelance professionals hired to assist in the creative work required (a production team). The structuring of advertising account teams in Japan, Europe and the USA depends on how accounts are distributed by advertising clients. The amount and kind of creativity displayed by photographers depends on advertising and the structure of fashion magazine publishing. Creativity itself thus depends on an unspoken set of institutional power relations that enables individuals to compete for recognition as being creative . URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/8148 Files in this item: 1
x656557124.pdf (257.0Kb) -
Moeran, Brian (, 2008)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: This essay examines embedded structural tensions in the organization of Japanese advertising production. Tensions arise from the fact that an advertising campaign, like many other creative products, is produced by motley crews of personnel from both within an agency contracted to carry out the campaign (an account team) and freelance professionals hired to assist in the creative work required (a production team). The structuring of advertising account teams in Japan, Europe and the USA depends on how accounts are distributed by advertising clients. The amount and kind of creativity displayed by photographers depends on advertising and the structure of fashion magazine publishing. Creativity itself thus depends on an unspoken set of institutional power relations that enables individuals to compete for recognition as being creative . URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/7777 Files in this item: 1
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Moeran, Brian (, 2009)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: This paper describes and analyses preparations for the holding of an anthropologist potter’s one-man show in a Japanese department store. Based on participant observation, it describes in detail the strategic planning of, and preparations for, the fieldworker’s own pottery exhibition in a department store located in northern Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan’s four main islands and home to a long tradition of porcelain and stoneware production. The paper focuses on the main players in the ceramic art world; the social interaction underpinning an exhibition; the conflicting ideals of ‘aesthetics’, display and money (pricing); and the ways in which different sets of values, and evaluating processes, affected the reception of the author’s work. It concludes by developing a theory of values in the light of recent writings in the field of cultural economics. URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/7942 Files in this item: 1
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Negotiating Values in the Creative IndustriesMoeran, Brian; Strandgaard Pedersen, Jesper (Frederiksberg, 2009)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: This paper looks at creative industry events – in particular fairs and festivals – and at how they provide a venue for the (re)enactment of institutional arrangements in a particular industry field, as well as for the negotiation and affirmation of different values that underpin them. Tracing the study of such field configuring events back to studies in economic anthropology and sociology, the authors of the paper argue that it is the notion of values that underpins fairs, festivals, awards, auctions and similar events. Going beyond the economist’s notion of ‘Value’ in the singular, the paper posits that, in order to understand the relationship between culture and economy, we need to consider a plurality of material/technical, social, situational, appreciative and functional values when examining how economic Value is derived from creative products. It is these values that are continuously being (re)negotiated and transacted by those participating in creative industry fairs and festivals. URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/7982 Files in this item: 1
33_BM_JS_Fairs_and_Festivals_FINAL.pdf (280.4Kb) -
Skov, Lise; Skjold, Else; Moeran, Brian; Larsen, Frederik; Csaba, Fabian F. (, 2009)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: Not so many years ago, the fashion industry was called a ‘sunset industry’, and was deemed to have no future in the most developed countries. But recently, the New York Times has suggested that ‘the sun never sets on the runway’ (Wilson, 2008). Under this heading the article described the diffusion of fashion week organizations, with accompanying fashion shows, that are no longer limited to a handful of fashion capitals, but are spreading to small-country capitals and medium-sized cities all around the world. URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/7943 Files in this item: 1
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Moeran, Brian (Frederiksberg, 2010)[More information][Less information]
Abstract: This working paper examines the field of Japanese publishing through a single event – the Tokyo International Book Fair – and analyses the part played by the three main players in the publishing industry: publishing houses, wholesale distributors, and bookstores and other retail outlets. It argues that the mutual relationships between the three are supported by two structural factors, the consignment sales and resale price maintenance (RPM) systems, before comparing the latter with the Net Book Agreement (NBA) that operated in the UK publishing industry for almost the whole of the 20th century. In conclusion, taking into account the rise of Internet retailing and the growth of Japanese chain retail stores, it tries to looks at what effect the abolition of RPM might have on the field of Japanese publishing. URI: http://hdl.handle.net/10398/8051 Files in this item: 1
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a cross-cultural comparison of ELLEMoeran, Brian (København, 2002)[More information][Less information]
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